Chapter 47: Kakadu & Katherine

Thursday Week 20

Dave extracted himself from Jill's arms as she lay sleeping beside him and went to the ensuite. After showering, he dressed and started getting breakfast ready. He didn't have far to go today, but there was a lot to see and do.

Jill stirred, saw Dave working in the kitchenette and said "what are you doing, lover, why up and dressed already with no love for your woman?"

"Time you got that pretty little body out of bed and joined me. We've got things to do today, woman, can't lie around wasting time" he said with a huge smile.

"Oh, so making love to me is wasting time is it? I'll remember that" she laughed back at him as she got up and went to the ensuite. She was, of course, still naked when she came out, gave him a kiss and sat down to eat the breakfast he had prepared for her.

By 9 am, Dave was driving out of the caravan park heading for Jabiru, some 254 kilometres away. Less than an hour later he was pulling up at Fogg Dam, where they walked almost a kilometre along the dam wall, viewing the birdlife in the wetlands. They stopped briefly in a bird hide, enjoying the beautiful scenery.

A few minutes further along the road, Dave saw the upswept line of the Window on the Wetlands Visitor Centre roof, which reflected the contours of the hills in the area. He turned into the centre, which was perched on Beatrice Hill, one of the highest points on the Adelaide River floodplain.

It was a steep walk from the car park to the entrance of the Visitor Centre, but worth the walk, they soon discovered and best of all, entry was free.

Beatrice Hill, they found out inside, was named on 6 June 1864, by Naval officers Hutchinson and Howard while surveying the Adelaide River on board the HMS Beatrice.

The Adelaide River, the brochure told them, was one of eight rivers in the Top End which have large floodplains in their catchments. Together, their floodplains created a great expanse of coastal wetlands, one of the rarest and most threatened land systems in the world. Collectively the area is known as the northern coastal wetlands.

Window on the Wetlands provided them with an introduction to this area. They enjoyed the interactive displays about the ecological processes that occur in the wetlands, the seasonal changes and the abundant wildlife.

The touch screen computers helped them explore the European and Aboriginal history of the region as well as showing them what to see and do while they were in the area.

About 30 kilometres later, Dave drove into Leaning Tree Lagoon Nature Park. It was a quiet, scenic lagoon and an ideal place for them to have their morning tea while bird watching. They saw a large number of Green Pigmy Geese as well as many other species of unique native wildlife.

Dave continued along the Arnhem Highway, over the Mary River crossing through the North Entry Station, where he paid to enter Kakadu National Park.

Their next stop was at Mamukala Wetlands and Bird Hide where they observed the spectacle of thousands of migratory magpie geese congregating to feed. Jill made them some sandwiches, which they ate while watching the geese from one of the bird hides. Several minutes were spent admiring the wonderful and informative mural that illustrated the seasonal changes that occurred throughout the year. When lunch was finished, Dave and Jill ambled through the tranquil wetlands on the one kilometre walk.

It was just after 2 pm by the time Dave was parking the RV at the caravan park. He planned to stay here for two nights, so got the 4WD off its trailer and they headed straight to the upstream boat ramp near the border store about 36 kilometres further north. They had to hurry though, as Dave had already made bookings for several activities, including the Guluyambi East Alligator River Cruise which was scheduled to leave at 3 pm.

The Guluyambi Cruise, Dave had been told, was an informative Aboriginal cultural tour of one of Kakadu National Park's most spectacular waterways, the East Alligator River which borders Western Arnhemland. It was a unique cruise that occurred on the transition waters where tidal waters meet the rock country and the vast flood plains begin.

Their tour was on a 25-seat boat, and their Aboriginal guides provided them with an insight into local Aboriginal mythology, the river's abundant food chain, traditional uses for many plants and animals as well as bush survival skills required for this wilderness environment.

They were impressed with the breath-taking scenery and abundant wildlife inhabiting the river environment, especially the number of crocodiles that could be seen basking in the sun.

One of the highlights was stepping onto Arnhemland, climbing on top of some large rocks. Entry into Arnhemland was strictly controlled, so that many Australians had never been there.

When they got off the boat, it was 4:45 pm, so Dave suggested that they do the Manngarre forest walk. The track was just north of the East Alligator River Road and was an easy one and a half kilometre circuit through rainforest and along the river. They walked quickly, even though it was hot, enjoying the views, because Dave was keen to be at Ubirr Rock before sunset. Fortunately, it was very close to where they were now.

Once he had parked the 4WD in the car park, Dave and Jill followed the 1 km circular walking track. It took them almost an hour, looking at the Aboriginal rock paintings as they went. The climb to the lookout took them a further 30 minutes and they just made it before sunset.

Ubirr consisted of a group of rock outcrops on the edge of the Nadab floodplain where they found several natural shelters with a collection of Aboriginal rock paintings, some of which are many thousands of years old. The art depicted certain creation ancestors as well as animals from the area such as barramundi, catfish, mullet, long-necked turtles, pig-nosed turtles, goannas, ringtail possums, and rock wallabies.

Dave read in his brochure that groups of Aboriginal people camped in rock shelters around Ubirr to take advantage of the enormous variety of foods available from the East Alligator River, the Nadab floodplain, the woodlands, and the surrounding stone country. The rock overhang of the main gallery provided an area where a family could set up camp.

Food items were regularly painted on the back wall, one on top of the other, to pay respect to the particular animal, to ensure future hunting success, or simply to illustrate a noteworthy catch. Although Aboriginal people no longer live in the shelter, the animals depicted are still hunted for food today.

Most of the art in the main gallery is from the freshwater period, so it is less than 1,500 years old. There are also some interesting examples of contact art. One 'white fella' is depicted in trousers, shirt and boots and with his hands in his pockets; another, with a pipe in his mouth and his hands on his hips, is 'bossing us Aboriginal people around'.

These figures are probably early buffalo hunters painted around the 1880s. Buffalo hunters employed Aboriginal people to help them hunt and run buffalo camps. Their pay was a little bit of tucker and some tobacco.

They saw the painting by Mimi spirits high up on the ceiling of the overhang. Aboriginal people describe how the Mimi spirits came out of the cracks in the rocks, pulled the ceiling rock down, painted the yellow and red sorcery image, and then pushed the rock back into place.

Close to the main gallery is a painting of a thylacine or Tasmanian tiger. Archaeological evidence suggested that thylacines became extinct on the mainland about 2,000 to 3,000 years ago.

Once they were on the top of Ubirr rock, Dave and Jill were amazed at the panoramic view of the floodplains and escarpments that, as the sun set, became especially beautiful.

It was well and truly dark by the time Dave had them back in the RV, exhausted by a long day with lots of walking.

"I can see why you wanted to leave early this morning" Jill said, as she stripped off and collapsed on a lounge chair, happily accepting the cold glass of white wine Dave gave her, but only after she had consumed a large glass of water.

"Would you like to go out for dinner? You look too tired to cook, so why don't we try the restaurant at the Gagadju Crocodile Hotel?" Dave suggested.

Jill happily accepted the offer and after showering, dressed for their night out. It turned out to be an excellent dinner, which they both enjoyed.

It was well before 10 pm, however, when two tired bodies were stretched out in bed, sleeping, too tired for more than a goodnight kiss.

Friday Week 20

Dave had Jill at the airfield at 9 am for the one hour scenic flight over Kakadu and Arnhemland. Their pilot was great, pointing out the scenic sights as they flew over escarpments, rugged eroded plateau, billabongs, wetlands and floodplains.

Their flight took them deep over Arnhemland as well as over the Ranger Uranium Mine and the township of Jabiru. From the air, Dave and Jill were able to see why the hotel was called Crocodile as they were able to see the shape of the building clearly and it was obviously replicating one very large crocodile.

Jill loved the 'I Flew Kakadu' certificate she was given at the completion of the flight, which listed and briefly described all the things that they had seen from the air. Something to add to the collection of memorabilia she was gathering.

Dave then drove around to the Bowali Visitor Centre, which was also the park headquarters. They learned that it was named after the Bowali Creek which flowed nearby. The centre's long lineal design was inspired by an Aboriginal Rock Shelter. The Bowali Visitor Centre contained a wealth of information about Kakadu National Park and they spent well over an hour exploring the centre. Both really enjoyed learning a little more about Kakadu.

Next, Dave drove around the small village of Jabiru, before going back to the RV for a quick bite to eat.

At 1:30 pm, Dave and Jill were back at the airfield where they joined a tour of the Ranger Uranium Mine. It was a small coach that took them to see most of the actual plant site. Their guide offered them a stage by stage explanation of how uranium was extracted, milled and processed until it became uranium oxide.

The tour then took them to see the open cut mine and the tailings repository. Here the tourists were able to get out and take photos, right at the very edge of the spectacular open pit.

Dave and Jill were both impressed with the knowledge of their guide, who answered questions about land ownership, royalties, radiation safety, environmental impacts and export issues.

A bit after 4 pm Dave and Jill were back in the RV. Jill was determined to cook them a nice dinner, seeing that Dave had taken her out to dinner last night. She had taken a duck out of the freezer at breakfast time and now baked it, while she made a sauce based on green ginger wine. She served this with some Asian greens and baked potatoes. Dave found a nice bottle of pinot noir that he was sure would go well with the duck, and he was right.

Dave thought the meal fantastic, as good as the great meal they had enjoyed at the restaurant last night he told her. Jill loved hearing Dave compliment her, not because she was vain, but she just loved pleasing him.

It was fairly early when Dave took her to bed so that he could demonstrate practically how much she had pleased him. Almost an hour later, she was lying in his arms, content and sated as she drifted off to sleep.

Saturday Week 20

Dave enjoyed the big cooked breakfast that Jill prepared for them, so that they could get their strength up for the amount of walking Dave had said they would be doing during most of the day.

He checked out of the caravan park, and drove south along the Kakadu Highway. About 19 kilometres past the Visitor Centre, he turned left and drove a further 12 kilometres to the Nourlangie car park.

Here they took the one and a half kilometre circular walk past an ancient Aboriginal shelter and several outstanding art sites. Jill in particular really enjoyed looking at all the different Aboriginal drawings. Their path took them up a reasonably steep climb to Gunwarddehwardde lookout where they could really appreciate the impressive views of Kakadu's escarpment and Nourlangie Rock.

Once they were back at the car park, Dave drove a short distance to the Anbangbang Billabong, where the two of them spent almost an hour. First they enjoyed a cup of tea, before taking the 2.5 kilometre circular walk. Both thought the billabong was very attractive, especially with Nourlangie Rock forming an impressive backdrop.

Dave drove just a little further on so that they could do the 600 metre climb up a fairly steep slope to the Nawurlandja Lookout. Here they enjoyed the wonderful views of the escarpment and the billabong that they had just walked around.

Jill had made them both a sandwich, which they ate at the lookout, washed down with water. Dave was making sure that plenty of water was consumed by them both in the hot weather, especially with all their exercise.

Next he continued back to the highway and almost exactly 11 kilometres later parked the RV so that the two of them could set off on the 3.6 kilometre return walk up the quite steep climb to the platform lookout on top of Mount Cahill. The views once again were very spectacular.

A further 19 kilometres south along the Kakadu Highway, Dave turned right and less than five kilometres later was at the Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre. Dave decided that a cappuccino should be the first item on their agenda and then they browsed through the gallery that sold arts and crafts, books, cards and light refreshments.

The circular design of this cultural centre represented a Warradjan or pig-nosed turtle, they were told by the attendants. The centre's large display, developed by the Bininj/Mungguy, provided them with detailed information about Aboriginal culture in Kakadu, and they learned even more from an interesting video that they watched.

It was almost 5 pm by the time they parked the RV at Cooinda. Both enjoyed the luxurious feeling of being clean after their showers, with the sweat and grime from their day's activities washed off them.

Jill started dinner, while Dave opened a bottle of white wine for her and got a beer for himself. He was so thirsty despite all the water he had drank, that the first beer disappeared very quickly, so, unusually, he had a second.

The tacos that Jill had made were ideal, light and easy to eat, as neither was very hungry despite all the exercise. They sat in the lounge after diner, cuddling as the last of the wine was consumed.

"When you've finished your drink, darling, you better take me to bed and make love to me, because I think you won't have an opportunity for the next several days" Jill told him, smiling sweetly and sexily at him.

Dave set the alarm before getting into bed as it was to be a dawn start in the morning. Then he happily complied with her request, making sweet, gentle love with his darling Jill, cuddling her to sleep after they had both experienced more glorious orgasms.

Sunday Week 20

Dave groaned as the alarm went off. It was still pitch black outside. He hated early morning starts, but the Yellow Water Dawn Cruise left, not surprisingly, at dawn. Actually, just a bit before dawn at 6:45 am so that they would be able to see the sunrise while on the river. He got up and used the ensuite then got a little breakfast for them while Jill was doing her ablutions.

Sure enough, when Jill came out of the ensuite she was wearing her panties. This was her signal that her monthly cycle had arrived and no sex was on the agenda for at least four nights.

Dave had read the brochure for the cruise and so he knew that the Yellow Water Billabong was located at the end of Jim Jim Creek, a tributary of the South Alligator River. The river system, the largest in the Park, contained extensive wetlands that included river channels, floodplains and backwater swamps.

The Yellow Water Cruise gave them a unique opportunity to experience what they agreed was a diverse and sublimely beautiful area as well as its associated wildlife. Apparently, about one third of Australia's bird species are represented in Kakadu National Park, with at least 60 species found in the wetlands. Whistling ducks and Magpie Geese were the most abundant. The highlight, which they particularly enjoyed, was watching the animals and birds that were just stirring as the new day dawned.

The cruise went for about an hour and a half, but the time passed very quickly with both Dave and Jill engrossed in the beautiful sights. Their guide was a young man who was very enthusiastic about the Billabong and he had such an abundance of knowledge on local, state and government issues affecting Yellow Waters that the two were both amazed. He provided a very low key fluent talk throughout the cruise on each new species of bird, lily, crocodile, horse, buffalo and cattle.

Both of them thought though that the highlight of the trip were two occasions that they saw, and which fortunately Dave was able to photograph, a Jabiru and a crocodile no more than 2.5 metres away both just eyeing each other. Jill reckoned that the Jabiru was the most magnificent bird imaginable, so proud and rather regal

When the cruise was over, Dave drove back to the RV so they could have some more breakfast and a cup of coffee.

It was around 10:30 am by the time Dave was driving the RV out of Cooinda and headed back to the highway, with both still chatting about how magnificent the early morning cruise had been. He continued south for another couple of kilometres and then turned right into Mardugal, where they did the one kilometre return walk to the billabong.

Dave continued south for about an hour until he arrived at the Southern Entry and Rangers Station. Here he was able to park the RV and unload the 4WD. They had a quick lunch before doing the 42 kilometre drive to Gunlom. Once there they did the steep climb to the top of the waterfall where they were rewarded with great views over southern Kakadu.

When they were back at the RV, with the 4WD back on its trailer, Dave continued out of the Park and to the junction of the Kakadu and Stuart Highways. He pulled into Pine Creek Caravan Park just after 4 pm.