Chapter 3: North of the Gawlers

They rattled along the highway for a while in silence. “You work fer the Ghan?”

“No.”

“Yer not a herder.”

“No. I’m just on walkabout.”

“The local band’s goin’ in a few days.”

“New moon?”

“Yep.”

“Yer early fer the birds.”

“That’s OK.”

The country west of Pimba is totally arid, and devoid of free water, surface or underground, though there are a few rock holes, or. In the summer it can be extremely hot: in the springtime, though, this country has great attraction for birdwatchers and botanists. It was nearly 40C at nine when Richard got out of the ute in Kingoonya, a nearly deserted ghost town.

Kingoonya was established in the early 1900s as a railway support town on the line extending west. It became more important during and after the First World War, when in fulfilment of the undertakings given to Western Australia in the processes leading up to Federation, the east-west railway line was built west to link with Kalgoorlie and Perth. In 2016, the population was approximately 10.

The pub, which had been closed and reopened about 15 years earlier appeared to be long-reclosed. The (self-service) gasoline pumps looked long dead. It looked as though the town was totally deserted. Sam had over a liter in his waterbag along with two stale rolls. He hitched his swag on his back and began to walk along Tarcoola Road. He’d covered about five klicks – not bad in the heat, he thought – and only taken a few mouthfuls of water when he heard a truck. A few minutes later an empty stock carrier pulled over.

“Need a lift?”

“I’m heading for the Moolkra Rockhole.”

“I c’n take you to the track. That’s about a klick. Don’ know that there’s any water in it now.”

“I’ll be OK.”

“Right. I’m pickin’ up about fifty Merinos they’re fetchin’ from Kalgoorlie.”

“Those are wool sheep, right?”

“Yep. They’re gonna cross-breed ‘em, I unnerstan’. Make ‘em more heat resistant.”

“Tough to be suffering from the heat when you’re wearing a wool coat.”

“That’s a corker, son! I’m Nelson.”

“Sam.”

“Have a drink. There’s a case of water behind you.”

“Thanks. How can I pay you?”

“Tell a story.”

“Well, in the Dreamtime, a Grandfather was out walking with his two daughters and their children. The children said that they were getting tired and thirsty. So the Grandfather told them to rest and then to walk towards a mountain in the distance. And he took his long spear and went to fetch water. But first he had to hunt a kangaroo, so that he would have a skin within which he could carry the water. So he was very quiet and he heard ‘thump-thump’ as a kangaroo jumped. The kangaroo had made a hole, and then he jumped again and made another, and on and on. And the Grandfather, ever so stealthily, followed. The first holes had become seeps. But he still had no skin for the water. The kangaroo jumped several more times and finally came to Kati Thanda [Lake Eyre] and he drank and drank and the lake was dry. Then the kangaroo lay down to sleep and Grandfather crept up on him and speared him and slip open his belly. And all the water ran out. Much ran back into Kati Thanda, but some filled up all the holes that kangaroo had made. Then Grandfather skinned the kangaroo and made a waterbag and filled it from the lake. And Grandfather set out for the mountain in the distance. But when he got there, his daughters and their children were all lying down. Grandfather saw they were in dire need of water, so he sprinkled some on their lips and poured some in each of their mouths. And after a time they stirred and awoke and sat up and looked around. But they could not see Grandfather. ‘Look, there he is,’ cried the youngest child. And there he was, in the sky. For the Great Serpent had made Grandfather a star.”

“That is a good teaching.”

“Thank you for saying so, Nelson.”

Water in the arid landscape has played a significant role in occupation and settlement since humans first arrived in Australia more than 60,000 years ago. For Aboriginal people in the arid areas of South Australia rock-holes provided a crucial water supply but also facilitated access to a wider area and a larger range of resources. Aboriginal routes in arid areas were largely governed by the occurrence and distribution of rock-holes with tracks radiating out from them. The more important water supplies usually have a totemic significance and play a very important part in Aboriginal ceremonial and social life and were often central trading locations. The Aboriginal people of the Gawler Ranges region include the Barngarla, Kokatha and the Wirangu people.

Due to lack of surface water, pastoralism was not developed in the area until wells were sunk and watering points were installed across the landscape. Today, pastoralism mostly

accesses bore water and rarely the water collection points on the granite outcrops therefore creating the perfect opportunity for both pastoralists and Indigenous people to work together in maintaining these culturally significant water resources. However to adequately understand the relationship between these components anthropologists, ecologists and pastoral consultants are working with both communities to integrate management of land, water and cultural practices. Melissa White, Prioritising rock-holes of Aboriginal and ecological significance in the Gawler Ranges, Government of South Australia Report DWLBC 2009/08

“Well, here we are, Sam. Thanks. The track to Moolkra Rockhole’s over there.”

Sam climbed down and watched Nelson’s rig bounce towards Tarcoola. He hadn’t been sure that Nelson was more real than his first ride. With water in him and the sun past zenith, he felt better. The track was visible, but not easy, and it took Sam nearly half an hour to get to the rockhole. It was barely damp. He sat down to think.

There was a shallow gully in the red-brown landscape running north-east to south-west, site of a long-ago stream. This might be Wilgena, but there were no sheep in sight – of course, though there were a few acacia shrubs, there was nothing for them to eat. Sam picked up a handful of stones and picked out a few of the more symmetrical ones. He used his sling, aiming at a boulder about ten meters away.

“You do that well,” came a voice.

Sam started. It was a young man, perhaps a few years older than he was. “I did not hear your coming.”

“I walk carefully. I am of the Kolkatha, from near Lake Gairdner. I am on a quest.”

“As am I.”

“There is no water here, I see.”

“No. But there will be some in Coolbring. That will take about three hours. Share my water.”

“Thank you. That is a precious gift.”

While the senior men visited Darebin rock-hole, the remainder of the field team searched for Moolkra rock-hole on Wilgena station. While the rock-hole was not located, a clay pan soak (kapi tjintjira) was found ... Tom Jenkin et al., SAALNRMB 2008. When she visited the next year, Melissa White noted: “Very poor catch. No water at time of fixing.” But Coolbring has been noted to contain 5000 gallons.

Sam handed his water bag to the Kolkatha, who took two swallows and returned it. “We will share more in an hour or two. It is best we wait before walking.”

They sat in silence. But Sam noticed some motion. Coming from behind the boulder was a bobtail skink (Tiliqua rugosa). He took his sling and killed it. The Kolkatha ran and fetched it.

“Have you a knife?” he asked, lizard in hand. Sam handed him his. The lizard was quickly eviscerated, the innards tossed to one side. Within moments a black kite (Milvus migrans) swooped down and made off with his snack. Sam gathered some brush and a few sticks. Fire was made and the skink thrown onto it. Sam walked to the nearby acacia and dug at its roots. He burrowed with his knife and tossed a handful of wriggling larvae into his hat.

“Witchetty grubs,” he said. “You like ‘em raw or cooked?”

“Raw’s fine,” his companion said, taking one, brushing a few grains of soil away, and popping it in his mouth.

“I like mine roasted,” San said. “Tastes like scrambled eggs.”