Elcano and the First Circumnavigation of the World Book 2
Copyright© 2026 by Mark West
Chapter 7
On Sunday, August 9th 1519, the assembled crews of the five naos attended Mass in the church of Santa María de la Victoria, where the voyage was formally authorised and blessed by representatives of King Carlos and Pope Leo X.
On Monday morning of August 10th 1519, with all supplies and 237 crew on board, we set sail from Sevilla. The signal to depart was a shot fired by the Captain-General’s ship, and the other ships responded by also firing shots. Then, with only the sail on the mainmast hoisted, we began to move down the river Betis, which now is called the Guadalquivir. We passed the village called San Juan de Alfarache, which previously had been an important Arab town with a bridge across the river on the road to Sevilla. Now there are only two ruined pillars of the bridge in the river, and these present dangers to ships that pass, so it is necessary to know the river well and to steer carefully between the two sunken pillars. There are other areas of danger on the river, so it is necessary to navigate the river at high tide.
We then saw a village called Coria, and after that several others on both sides of the river until finally we reached Sanlucar which contains the castle of the Duke of Medina-Sidonia, and where there is a port that leads to the ocean. Cape San Vincente lies about 10 leagues to the west of the port on the parallel 37 degrees north. From Sanlucar to Sevilla is about 17 to 20 leagues by river. We waited at Sanlucar for Magellan and the other captains to join us as they had remained in Sevilla. Duarte Barbosa confided to me that the reason for our hurried departure from Sevilla was that a few men had already abandoned their ships and Magellan feared that more would be tempted to join them if we remained in Sevilla where there were many opportunities for sailors to seek employment on naos bound for destinations that were known and frequently visited. Even in Sanlucar one man deserted while we waited for favourable winds to blow that would take us on the first stage of our voyage.
During the 40 days that we remained there, the Captain-General travelled up and down the river visiting other villages in the company of the captains of the other ships. They visited various villages to buy food and other stores that were lacking in the fleet. Every day we went ashore to attend mass in a church called Our Lady of Barrameda, and before we continued on our journey, Magellan ordered everyone to confess their sins to a priest. Again I heard whispers about how Magellan was treating everyone like a child who needed guidance by insisting that we attend mass and confess our sins.
“Sin of pride,” I overheard someone mutter. When I looked to see who it was, I was not surprised to note that the person complaining was Juan de Cartagena, captain of the San Antonio, and he was complaining to Gaspar de Quesada, captain of the Concepción where I was maestre. But I held my peace and did not speak to anyone about what I had overheard, although I could only concur silently with this opinion of Magellan’s character.
As a precaution, the entry of women to the ships was forbidden. I believed that this was a mistake on the part of Magellan because we did not know when we would make safe landfall again, and the sailors and men-at-arms would be deprived of female company perhaps for months and this would not be good for morale. The sailors and men-at-arms were confined to their ships apart from the daily visit to church and this led to boredom and gave rise to petty arguments and even some fights. If Magellan had allowed the crew to visit the local brothels or allowed women to come on board, there would have been less cause for men to engage in disputes because of being confined to their ships.
Finally, on Tuesday, 20th September, we left Sanlucar heading south-west, and on 26th we arrived at one of the Canary Islands called Tenerife which is situated at a latitude of 28 degrees north. We remained in the port of Santa Cruz there for three days during which we stocked up on water and firewood. From there we sailed to another port on the same island called Monte Rojo and remained there for two days.
It is known that, according to what they told us in Monte Rojo, there is another island nearby which lacks any source of fresh water as there are no springs there. But God has arranged to supply the water that they need by means of a huge tree whose leaves distil the precious liquid. This water comes from a cloud which at midday every day surrounds the tree which absorbs the water in the cloud and then lets it run into a well that the local people have dug below the tree. This well never runs dry and it contains sufficient water to supply the needs of the people and the domesticated and wild animals in the island.
Duarte Barbosa told me that Magellan had found a letter from his father, Diogo, already waiting for him in the Santa Cruz post office. It said that Juan de Cartagena, Gasper de Quesada, and Luis de Mendoza had been heard openly discussing their plans to throw Magellan overboard and take over themselves as soon as they were well away from Europe. “Keep a good watch,” wrote Barbosa. Magellan dashed off a reply stating that he would do so.
On Monday 3rd October at midnight we hoisted sails and set off south in the vast ocean. When the order to leave port at midnight was communicated to the other ships, it caused some surprise and suspicion among the crews. However, I had learned from natives of Monte Rojo that they had sighted a large fleet of Portuguese ships pass two days previously heading in a westerly direction. As it was not normal to find so many ships from Portugal sailing on this course, I surmised that they had been sent by King Manuel to prevent our fleet from reaching the coast of the New World, and that Magellan had also become aware of this possible danger to our ships. But as Magellan did not share this information with the other captains, it led to doubts about his ability to guide us safely to our destination.
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