Elcano and the First Circumnavigation of the World Book 2
Copyright© 2026 by Mark West
Chapter 4
Returning to Deba by barge, we then directed our nao to Hondarribía in Gipuzkoa at the wish of Cermeño, who swore that the best quality of gunpowder could be found there. And so it proved, with Artieta placing an order for 50 quintales (2,300 kilos) to be delivered to Bilbao. The cost of this quantity of gunpowder was 114,505 maravedis, and again there was no hint of Artieta attempting to enrich himself at the expense of the crown. The same was true of Cermeño who conducted the negotiations to buy this quantity of gunpowder. While we were in Hondarribia, I remained hidden from sight as much as possible because I still had fears that at such close proximity to France, there might be some who remembered my time serving in Juan’s tavern, and who might have heard from Juan about the agreement with the French merchants. I was glad to leave that port as soon as our business had been concluded to Cermeño’s satisfaction.
I contemplated visiting Getaria to see how my family and friends were, but on reflection judged it prudent not to upset their daily routine by returning so soon after I had left. The fact that I had still not secured an offer of a position of rank on the voyage was also a factor in making my decision. I did not want people in Getaria to believe that I might be passed over for some important position. So, I remained with our party as we sailed to Bilbao to finalise our purchases. Likewise, Artieta did not visit his home town of Lekeitio, but insisted that our mission was more important than spending time in familiar surroundings. However, when we again landed in Bilbao, we enquired about iron foundries which had a reputation for excellent work. We visited several in Barakaldo near Bilbao on the left bank of the river Nervión to place orders for goods on the list from Fonseca. Then, as it was August, we two Basques sought out a tavern in a village at the mouth of the river Nervión which several employees at different iron foundries assured us had the best grilled sardines and bonito, which were the delicacies of that season. This was a small fishing port known as Kai Zaharra (Old Port) which lay at the bottom of a hill below a settlement of a few scattered farmhouses known locally as Alkorta which in Euskara means ‘a stone stable’. We found the small tavern in a square overlooking the old fishing port and introduced ourselves to the owner who told us his name was Mario Basagoiti. He was 42 years old and had inherited the tavern from his older brothers who had been lost at sea while fishing off the coast of Ireland. He was surprised to hear that the fame of his tavern had spread as far as Barakaldo, but he invited us to judge for ourselves whether the reputation of the food was justified. Indeed the sardines and bonito grilled over an open fire in the square outside the simple tavern tasted heavenly, especially when accompanied by a locally produced white wine known as txakoli, and were much appreciated by Cermeño. Even Barbosa, who as a Portuguese was very familiar with these fruits of the sea, had to admit that the taste and smell of the food caused him to believe that there was little to judge between the quality of this simple food in that rustic tavern and that of his home town, although he refused to drink the txakoli, declaring it bitter after one sip, and instead demanded a red wine from Rio Oja.
However, that was the only time we spent at leisure on this voyage. In Bilbao and Barakaldo, Artieta purchased the remaining weapons that might be needed on the voyage. These comprised 1,000 spears, 71 light and heavy cannons, longbows, crossbows and crossbow bolts, arrows, armour and cannon balls and lead and iron projectiles for the weapons that used gunpowder. In total, Artieta spent 525,150 maravedis on purchases of weapons. However, as Barakaldo was famed for its ironwork, in addition to weapons, we also returned to Sevilla with other iron products, such as anchors, fishing harpoons, hoes, mallets, shovels, picks, saws, lanterns, axes, cooking kettles, small iron bars, nails of all kinds, and even a forge. The trip had been a success, and I was able to report to Recalde on my return that Artieta had displayed no attempt to cheat or falsify invoices with the intention of enriching himself while making purchases. On the contrary, he had demonstrated a remarkable ability to obtain discounts and reduced prices for the many items he had bought, thereby saving the crown money.
When I reported my findings and observations to Recalde, he laughed heartily and explained that Artieta had no need to try to pry loose a few maravedis or ducats from the privy purse as Magellan had already agreed to purchase a ship he owned as one of the five naos that would undertake this historic voyage. From the sale of this nao, the Santa Catalina de Siena of 132 tons, Artieta received 270,000 maravedis. This price reminded me of the low price that I had been forced to accept for the sale of the Santa Maria to the merchants from Savoy in order to pay my crew for their services after the retreat from the disaster of Gelves. I had been refused payment for my services by the Governor of Naples, so I had no other remedy but to sell the nao that I had inherited from my father, which led to me being accused of treason as Savoy was a competitor to the crown of Spain, and especially to its rule of the kingdom of Naples.
From this, I understood that if a man had the right connections, he would not have to work hard to make his fortune. As a result, I endeavoured to make myself as useful to Recalde as possible, in the hope that he would reward me with a suitable position on the fleet. And so it proved.
Recalde was ordered by King Carlos to deliver a message to his mother, Queen Juana, who had been confined to the Royal Palace in Tordesillas when Carlos attained his majority and ascended to the throne of Castile at the age of 16 on the death of his grandfather, King Ferdinand. Queen Juana had inherited the crown of Castile on the death of her mother, Queen Isabella in 1504 and had ruled Spain jointly with her father, Ferdinand, but she was later deemed to be mad, and was popularly known as Juana la Loca (Juana the Mad). She had gained that title when she refused to allow the body of her husband, Philip the Handsome, to be buried in Burgos on his death in 1506, and ordered it to accompany her when, heavily pregnant, she travelled almost 700 kilometres from Burgos to Granada where she finally allowed his corpse to be buried in the tomb of her mother, Isabella, as a sign that Philip had a legitimate entitlement to the throne of Castile during his life. By placing Philip’s body in the tomb of Isabella, Juana had publicly asserted the right of her son, Carlos, to claim the throne of Spain. Her reward was to be banished by Carlos when he ascended to the throne of Spain at the age of 16 on the death of his grandfather, Ferdinand; and to be called mad by the world. I saw no signs of madness in the short time I spent in her presence, but as I am not a physician, my opinion is of little worth.
I had the opportunity to meet her when Recalde entrusted me with the task of delivering the letter from King Carlos safely to Queen Juana. I did not enquire about the contents of the letter, but I believed that the king was asking his mother for financial help, although I also believed that she would refuse to help him as he was responsible for incarcerating her in the palace of Tordesillas. On arrival in Tordesillas, I made my way to the Royal Palace where I was at first refused entry. It appeared that the guards had orders to keep the queen incommunicado. However, when I showed the royal seal on the letter I carried, a guard demanded that I deliver the letter to him. However, I refused as I had instructions that the letter should be delivered in person to the queen. So, a guard left his post and entered the palace to seek guidance about my request to deliver the letter to the queen. I was finally allowed to enter and told to wait in an outer room where I would be able to deliver my message. In spite of being the bearer of a letter from the queen’s son, I was offered no refreshments nor any morsel to eat. Instead I was confined in a small antechamber with a guard at the door to ensure that I did not attempt to enter the palace itself.
Finally, the door opened, and a lady with a round face, a fair complexion, wide blue eyes, and hair colour between strawberry-blonde and auburn entered, accompanied by a friar. She was dressed simply without giving any hint that she had previously been queen of Spain and was the mother of the ruling monarch. I arose and, as a mark of respect, I bowed and took off my head covering with its attached scallop of a pilgrim, but she bade me sit. She took a seat opposite me while the friar remained standing. She asked me why I had come and when I explained that I had been instructed by Recalde to deliver a letter from the king, I could see from her countenance that she would probably be displeased by the message contained in the letter. This suspicion was reinforced when I handed the letter to the queen and, after she had broken the seal and read its contents, she flung it to the floor in anger, and exclaimed in a loud voice:
“No, no. Este viaje temerario podría llevarnos a una guerra con Portugal. Y tienes la audacia de pedirme que contribuya a una empresa que ignora el Tratado acordado en este mismo palacio de la ciudad de Tordesillas hace tantos años.” (No, no, This foolhardy voyage may yet lead us into a war with Portugal. And you have the audacity to ask me to contribute to an undertaking that disregards the Treaty that was agreed in this very palace in the city of Tordesillas so many years ago).
Having finished speaking, the queen took a deep breath and sighed loudly. Finally, she composed herself and turned her gaze to me. Looking at my head covering which I still clutched in my hand, she pointed to the scallop and asked me if that meant that I had visited the shrine of Saint James. When I replied that I had walked to the cathedral in Compostela, and that I had seen the famous botafumeiro in action, she asked me to describe how I felt being so close to the place where the saint’s bones had been laid to rest. I reflected on how I had felt being in the presence of the remains of the saint who had assisted the Spanish to defeat the Arabs at the beginning of the reconquest of Spain, and I was able to reply truthfully that I had felt that God would watch over me on that voyage, and that He would do the same on the voyage of Magellan if I was fortunate to be appointed to a position of importance.