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The Old West questions

Switch Blayde ๐Ÿšซ

I just started a short story that takes place in the Old West. I needed a time period before artificial insemination was available so I chose the late 1800s (although I don't mention the date).

I never wrote a Western so I will have questions for you all-knowing people in this group.

The first one has to do with undergarments.

The man's underwear is a Union suit. it's one piece with buttons from the groin to the neck and a flap in the back. Long sleeves and legs. I think of it as long johns but Google pointed me to Union suit. First, is "Union" capitalized? It was everywhere I saw it. Second, is that the right undergarment for a cowboy rancher? I really didn't want something that cumbersome to take off.

The woman's was more difficult. I have her wearing pantaloons with a petticoat over it. And a camisole on her torso. I didn't bother with a bra.

Any comments?

Replies:   Dominions Son
Dominions Son ๐Ÿšซ
Updated:

@Switch Blayde

The woman's was more difficult. I have her wearing pantaloons with a petticoat over it. And a camisole on her torso. I didn't bother with a bra.

You are right to not bother with a bra, as the bra was invented in 1914. However, corsets would have been in fashion, even in the US west, for most of the 19th century.

Replies:   Switch Blayde
Switch Blayde ๐Ÿšซ

@Dominions Son

However, corsets would have been in fashion,

I didn't mean a literal bra. I meant nothing under the camisole. She is not large on top and doesn't need a corset. They're wearing too much undergarments as it is.

Replies:   Dominions Son
Dominions Son ๐Ÿšซ

@Switch Blayde

I meant nothing under the camisole. She is not large on top and doesn't need a corset.

The function of a corset is to restrict/narrow the waist, not to support the bust. In fact there were/are corsets that don't cover the bust at all. Just the thing for a woman with not much bust. Gives her that hourglass figure despite the lack of bust.

As to men's underpants, the Union suit isn't the only option. Drawers were around for both men and women. These were a light weight cotton pants with a tie closure for the waist available in both full leg and shorts (that would have been the precursor to modern elastic waist boxer shorts).

http://www.ushist.com/mens_1800s_clothing/lfhp-drawers_drawers_longjohns_unionsuits.shtml

Replies:   Vincent Berg  samsonjas
Vincent Berg ๐Ÿšซ

@Dominions Son

As to men's underpants, the Union suit isn't the only option. Drawers were around for both men and women. These were a light weight cotton pants with a tie closure for the waist available in both full leg and shorts (that would have been the precursor to modern elastic waist boxer shorts).

As usual, the undergarments worn largely depend on the weather. The 'Union suit' was primarily designed for Northerns (anywhere from New England to Virginia, or anywhere it would get cold at night). In fact, in New England, it would get so cold, that few bothered taking them off for the entire winter (another use for the drop drawers in the back and the piss-buttons in the front).

And yes, Union suit is capitalize, as it's the proper name of the outfit, even if it's not a product or company title.

@Switch

You also might want to consider that, as a result of poverty, accidents, raids, or any other mishaps, they might not have ANY underwear at all and have to go commando.

Poor Wanda Weinermeier, so was so poor, she was always losing her undergarments almost as soon as she'd put them on!

Replies:   joyR  Dominions Son
joyR ๐Ÿšซ

@Vincent Berg

And yes, Union suit is capitalize, as it's the proper name of the outfit, even if it's not a product or company title.

So my imagination combines that statement with;

In fact, in New England, it would get so cold, that few bothered taking them off for the entire winter (another use for the drop drawers in the back and the piss-buttons in the front).

And hey presto, the name Union suit came about because in those winter climes a man and woman could button the flaps of their suits to each others suits so as to enable frostbite free copulation. A true Union suit if ever there was one...

:)

Dominions Son ๐Ÿšซ

@Vincent Berg

The 'Union suit' was primarily designed for Northerns (anywhere from New England to Virginia

My understanding is that they came in lighter versions for summer wear. The name comes from them being standard issue for the Union army. They were necessary even in summer because the course materials of the outer uniform would cause skin irritation/chafing problems, so the soldiers needed long sleeve and long legged under garments, not for protection from the weather, but for protection from their uniform.

samsonjas ๐Ÿšซ

@Dominions Son

The function of a corset is to restrict/narrow the waist, not to support the bust. In fact there were/are corsets that don't cover the bust at all. Just the thing for a woman with not much bust. Gives her that hourglass figure despite the lack of bust.

For anyone wanting to see a pretty girl getting dressed, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nUmO7rBMdoU

That video says that the purpose of stays (the old name for corset) was 'to support the bust, rather than restrict the waist'.

Whether this is wrong, or changes, by the Wild West I have no idea.

Replies:   Dominions Son
Dominions Son ๐Ÿšซ
Updated:

@samsonjas

That video says that the purpose of stays (the old name for corset) was 'to support the bust, rather than restrict the waist'.

It depends on the time period I suppose.

http://thedreamstress.com/2013/08/terminology-whats-the-difference-between-stays-jumps-a-corsets/

As waistlines dropped in the late 1810s, boning returned to undergarments. Corset, however, remained in use as a term for supportive undergarments, but now referring to the more boned, waist-cinching undergarments, rather than the soft waistcoats they had originally indicated.

It became the fashion in the mid 19th century for women to wear very tightly laced corsets specifically to make their waists narrower.

So tight, that they could make breathing difficult. When you hear references from that period about women passing out from 'the vapors', an over tight corset was probably the real cause.

Replies:   Switch Blayde  Tw0Cr0ws
Switch Blayde ๐Ÿšซ
Updated:

@Dominions Son

It became the fashion in the mid 19th century for women to wear very tightly laced corsets specifically to make their waists narrower.

That's probably what became the girdle.

Replies:   Dominions Son  joyR
Dominions Son ๐Ÿšซ

@Switch Blayde

That's probably what became the girdle.

Yep, the corsets of that era were closer to what would be called a girdle today than they were to the stays of earlier times.

joyR ๐Ÿšซ

@Switch Blayde

That's probably what became the girdle.

A corset has stays, a girdle does not.

Whilst to a point their effects are similar, they are not interchangeable. Wearing a corset is VERY different to wearing a girdle.

Replies:   Switch Blayde
Switch Blayde ๐Ÿšซ

@joyR

A corset has stays, a girdle does not.

And didn't girdles have garter clips to hold up stockings?

Replies:   joyR
joyR ๐Ÿšซ

@Switch Blayde

And didn't girdles have garter clips to hold up stockings?

Some did yes, as did some corsets. So garter clips isn't helpful in defining which is which.

However, don't let me interrupt you, by all means get back on to the "Old West".

Replies:   Switch Blayde
Switch Blayde ๐Ÿšซ

@joyR

by all means get back on to the "Old West".

I had no intention of ever writing a Western, but I'm enjoying it. Who knew?

Tw0Cr0ws ๐Ÿšซ

@Dominions Son

The ideal of the day was an 18 inch waist. Even though women then were physically smaller than today that would still take quite a bit of restriction for most women.

Replies:   Dominions Son
Dominions Son ๐Ÿšซ

@Tw0Cr0ws

that would still take quite a bit of restriction for most women.

Enough restriction to result in chronic oxygen deprivation, and thus the reputation for women fainting at the drop of a hat.

gruntsgt ๐Ÿšซ

You also might want to consider that, as a result of poverty, accidents, raids, or any other mishaps, they might not have ANY underwear at all and have to go commando.

Replies:   Switch Blayde
Switch Blayde ๐Ÿšซ
Updated:

@gruntsgt

they might not have ANY underwear at all and have to go commando.

Women didn't always wear underpants in those times. But I believe the pantaloons were open at the crotch so that works out good. As to the guy, he rode on horseback from his ranch to her house in town. He needs underwear.

Dominions Son ๐Ÿšซ

@Switch Blayde

Women didn't always wear underpants in those times.

This actually stopped in the early 19th century.

You might find this article interesting: https://recollections.biz/blog/bloomers-pantaloons-and-knickers-oh-my/

Replies:   Switch Blayde
Switch Blayde ๐Ÿšซ

@Dominions Son

This actually stopped in the early 19th century.

A Romance author doing research for a novella taking place in Montana in 1896 on women's underwear found this:

The problems they did have was how to conveniently use the restroom without taking off all of those layers of chemises and corsets and covers. There were garter belts and stocking ties to consider in these days too. Simply put, there was no way that you were going to be able to pull any panties down while wearing those clothes.

The solution was easy. No panties. Yep, for a large part of history, women didn't wear underwear (as we know it) at all. What they did wear were loose garments with no crotches that could be easily whisked aside when nature called. It was functionality over allure in those days. Especially since the odds of your skirt accidentally ending up over your head were small.

https://merryfarmer.wordpress.com/2013/08/12/a-brief-look-at-womens-underwear-in-the-19th-century/

Replies:   Dominions Son
Dominions Son ๐Ÿšซ
Updated:

@Switch Blayde

The solution was easy. No panties. Yep, for a large part of history, women didn't wear underwear (as we know it) at all.

See now, that "as we know it" is a huge qualifier that makes a lot of difference.

Did you look at that link I posted?

Pantaloons, drawers, knickers, and bloomers. What do all of these items have in common? During the 1800's all were adopted by women as a necessary article of clothing. During the early nineteenth century women did not typically wear anything under their skirts and petticoats. However, during the empire period early in the century, women's clothing became lighter and thinner, and the fabric very sheer. Modesty and warmth dictated that another garment be worn under these sheer gowns, and the practical solution was to adopt a warm undergarment called pantaloons, which was already worn by men. These pantaloons were made of a light material that was flesh-toned, Extended from the waist to the ankle, and gave the appearance of having nothing on under the dress.

And this:

These undergarments were sewn as two separate pant legs, which were joined only at the waist, leaving the crotch open. (Thus โ€“ we get the term a pair of pants) A very full cut ensured that this open seam would remain closed while being worn.

StarFleet Carl ๐Ÿšซ

@Dominions Son

These undergarments were sewn as two separate pant legs, which were joined only at the waist, leaving the crotch open. (Thus โ€“ we get the term a pair of pants) A very full cut ensured that this open seam would remain closed while being worn.

What I find amusing is that I was conducting some research on RedTube the other evening and found an attempt from a German movie to authentically depict women's clothing - and this is exactly what the women were wearing.

Replies:   Dominions Son
Dominions Son ๐Ÿšซ

@StarFleet Carl

It should be noted that men's pantaloons, also made that way were outerwear, not underwear.

Switch Blayde ๐Ÿšซ

@Dominions Son

These undergarments were sewn as two separate pant legs, which were joined only at the waist, leaving the crotch open.

Yes, this is what I got from that author's research. My female character is wearing crotch-less pantaloons.

Replies:   Dominions Son
Dominions Son ๐Ÿšซ
Updated:

@Switch Blayde

My female character is wearing crotch-less pantaloons.

They aren't exactly crotch-less. There's no crotch seam, but there's enough material there that if she was standing in front of you in just her pantaloons, you wouldn't be able to see her crotch.

There's actually more material (from each pant leg) in the crotch than in modern pants, it's just not sewn together.

Replies:   Switch Blayde
Switch Blayde ๐Ÿšซ

@Dominions Son

They aren't exactly crotch-less.

Yeah, they were split-crotch.

Vincent Berg ๐Ÿšซ

@Dominions Son

Pantaloons, drawers, knickers, and bloomers. What do all of these items have in common? During the 1800's all were adopted by women as a necessary article of clothing.

Keep in mind, your description of "adopted as a necessary article of clothing" covers the women from better-off families, mainly in the East. Those poor souls, trudging west looking for better opportunities, could rarely afford those 'thin, light flesh-toned materials', typically wearing burlap dresses left over from potato sacks. :(

Replies:   drgnmstr
drgnmstr ๐Ÿšซ

@Vincent Berg

I believe that burlap was not favored, being too rough. I think they preferred old flour sacks, much softer.

Honey_Moon ๐Ÿšซ

@Switch Blayde

Women didn't always wear underpants in those times. But I believe the pantaloons were open at the crotch so that works out good. As to the guy, he rode on horseback from his ranch to her house in town. He needs underwear.

I think you are right about the pantaloons being open. The might not have been completely open though. Think of two overlapping sections of fabric, similar to the opening in men's tighty-whities, but looser. Ladies didn't want to need to completely undress when 'making water'.

Replies:   Dominions Son
Dominions Son ๐Ÿšซ

@Honey_Moon

The might not have been completely open though.

It's completely open in the sense that there is no connection/seam between the two legs. This is where a "pair" of pants comes from.

In the same way the ladies then wouldn't have needed to undress to 'make water', they wouldn't have to undress for sex.

Switch Blayde ๐Ÿšซ

@Dominions Son

they wouldn't have to undress for sex.

I don't believe that had anything to do with the design.

Not that long before the time period of the story, they didn't wear anything under the petticoat.

Replies:   Dominions Son
Dominions Son ๐Ÿšซ

@Switch Blayde

I don't believe that had anything to do with the design.

So? The law of unintended consequences.

Replies:   Switch Blayde
Switch Blayde ๐Ÿšซ

@Dominions Son

So? The law of unintended consequences.

It works for my story too. :)

Honey_Moon ๐Ÿšซ

@Dominions Son

It's completely open in the sense that there is no connection/seam between the two legs. This is where a "pair" of pants comes from.

In the same way the ladies then wouldn't have needed to undress to 'make water', they wouldn't have to undress for sex.

I think we are both describing the same thing in different ways.
:)

Remus2 ๐Ÿšซ

This is not a subject I've ever researched. I'd be curious what the equivalents are for the same time frame in Europe and Asia if anyone has anything on that.

Switch Blayde ๐Ÿšซ
Updated:

Getting back to the Old West, I discovered that elastic was around back then so stockings (cotton or wool) could stay up on their own. I thought they needed garters (suspenders) back then.

Replies:   Dominions Son
Dominions Son ๐Ÿšซ

@Switch Blayde

Getting back to the Old West, I discovered that elastic was around back then so stockings (cotton or wool) could stay up on their own. I thought they needed garters (suspenders) back then.

Some needed suspenders, some didn't I would imagine that back then stockings with elastic that could stay up on their own were rather a bit more expensive than stockings that required a garter.

Replies:   Switch Blayde
Switch Blayde ๐Ÿšซ
Updated:

@Dominions Son

I would imagine that back then stockings with elastic that could stay up on their own

Stocking as in sock. Not stocking like nylons.

I want to call them socks, but they seem to be referred to as stockings. So I specifically say they are cotton (too hot for wool ones in the story) and mention the elastic band.

What really confuses me, though, is pictures of men in the 1920s wearing garters to hold up their socks.

Replies:   Dominions Son
Dominions Son ๐Ÿšซ
Updated:

@Switch Blayde

Stocking as in sock. Not stocking like nylons.

You refer to cotton stockings, nylons wouldn't exist at that point, but I'd bet that silk stockings were available.

I want to call them socks, but they seem to be referred to as stockings.

I believe length is the key difference. Knee-highs or shorter are socks. Thigh highs, anything where the top is above the knee are stockings. The material, wool, cotton, silk, or nylon is irrelevant.

My understanding is that garters would only be used with thigh highs.

Replies:   Switch Blayde
Switch Blayde ๐Ÿšซ

@Dominions Son

My understanding is that garters would only be used with thigh highs

In my story, the elastic band was above the knee so they were thigh high. But I read they were elastic. One article mentioned that they would often leave a red mark when taken off. In the movie clip of the woman dressing, she tied a ribbon over the stocking (I think below the knee). I don't know if that was to hold it up or for decoration.

Men's garters in the 1920s were tied around the calf.

Dominions Son ๐Ÿšซ

@Switch Blayde

One article mentioned that they would often leave a red mark when taken off.

I would expect that. With early elastics, they wouldn't have as much experience with what is tight enough to stay up but not too tight to cause potential problems.

Dominions Son ๐Ÿšซ

@Switch Blayde

In the movie clip of the woman dressing, she tied a ribbon over the stocking

If you are talking about the Youtube link posted on this thread, the stocking went to just barely above the knee, but then she tied a ribbon around it just under the knee.

If the purpose is to hold it up, that was a good spot. it's above the bulge of the calf muscle, so the ribbon wouldn't need to be tight to keep the stocking up.

joyR ๐Ÿšซ

@Switch Blayde

One article mentioned that they would often leave a red mark when taken off.

Any tight clothing tends to leave marks, ask any model or photographer of nudes. Elastic or simple ties, makes no difference.

ystokes ๐Ÿšซ

I was a background actor on the tv western "The Magnificent Seven" and wardrobe was very strict on what we wore. Most women had at least 3 layers of outerwear mostly wool. The outdoor sets were filmed in Sagus Ca. during the summer where it could get over 100. Once again i'm glad I was a guy.

One of the problems working tv shows was winter scenes filmed in the summer and summer scenes filmed in the winter. So you can be in just shorts on the beach when it is 50 degrees and all bundled up while it is over 90.

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